Footprints of Faith

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Money Exchange:

The moment I checked into my hotel, I immediately set out on a very important mission: turning my American dollars into Vietnamese dong. Before the trip, I had done my “research” (watched one too many Instagram reels) and became fully convinced that ATMs in Vietnam probably wouldn’t work for me—which is exactly why I showed up with a stack of cash to exchange.

I had also read that the best rates were at local gold and jewelry shops… but only if you roll in with crisp, brand-new $100 bills like you’re closing a sketchy business deal. Meanwhile, I had just come from a U.S. ATM with a collection of slightly questionable $20s that looked like they’d lived a full life.

So, plan B: I went to Vietcombank, the responsible, adult option. They offer different exchange rates depending on your bills—because of course they do—and while $100s get the royal treatment, my $20s were more… politely acknowledged. Still decent, probably not the absolute best, but good enough for someone who clearly didn’t plan this part very well.

I exchanged my cash there, but honestly? If I could do it again, I’d skip the whole overcomplicated strategy and just use an ATM. Turns out, the reputable bank ones work completely fine—and with a no international fees debit card—all that pre-trip stress was, as usual, unnecessary.

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Hanoi

As Barbie says—to the salon! I booked a reputable spa before I even arrived so that after 30+ hours of travel, I could kick off my trip in true Vietnamese serenity: an hour-long massage, facial, and hair wash at Nha Spa. All for a whopping $32 USD!!

Post-pampering, I explored the northern section of the Old Quarter, wandering in and out of shops. It’s the perfect place to pick up those beautiful lanterns you’ve definitely seen all over Instagram.

After some window shopping, I met up with local friends who wanted to try a highly rated restaurant near my hotel. I was more than happy to lean into something a bit fancy—I was still recovering from salmonella and a parasite I picked up in Kenya (work trip… long story). We went to Maison 1929 and ordered spring rolls, duck dumplings, and a Vietnamese-style salad.

Jet lag had me wide awake early the next morning, so I headed to Hoan Kiem Lake to catch the famous morning workout scene. If you don’t already know, this is where Vietnamese moms and grandmas gather for their daily aerobics—and it did not disappoint. There were ladies everywhere doing everything from Zumba-style routines to slow, yoga-like stretches. A little something for everyone. While looping the lake, I stopped by Ngoc Son Temple and somehow ended up in a full-on group photoshoot with women in traditional dress.

After my unexpected modeling debut, I headed to King Roti for a sweet treat—soft buns filled with coffee-infused chocolate, matcha, or vanilla cream. I went with the coffee chocolate (zero regrets). Naturally, I needed coffee to go with it, so I popped into The Note Coffeehouse. Yes, it’s touristy—but still worth it. The entire place is covered in sticky notes from travelers around the world, and I added my own while sipping an incredible frozen coconut coffee.

Before my trip, I’d read that Hanoi is a great place for custom silk clothing. And as a girl in her mid-twenties with approximately three weddings this summer, I felt obligated to investigate. I visited Silk Soiree, known for its Three Sisters Silk dresses—run by a multi-generational local family. I found a stunning periwinkle dress with purple embroidery and assumed I’d need it tailored… but somehow it fit perfectly. No hemming, no adjustments. A travel miracle. After trying on a few others, it was clear the first one was coming home with me.

That afternoon, I set off on a motorbike tour booked through GetYourGuide. It kicked off at a cozy café with amazing salt coffee and a full-on feast: bánh mì, spring rolls, and rainbow noodles. I expected a big group—but thanks to some last-minute cancellations, I ended up on a private tour. Not mad about it.

We zipped through the Old Quarter, down tiny alleys and narrow roads, past what’s called the “black market” (really just a used goods market), and into a massive food market the government keeps trying—and failing—to shut down. Along the way, we tried Vietnamese wedding rice cake and fried banana, and visited a lake with a Vietnam War–era bomber that had been shot down. The highlight was definitely Train Street where I had a front row view and a tasty beverage as the train came passing inches away. My guide, Q, made the whole experience unforgettable—sharing everything from French colonization to the Vietnam War to modern-day government and cultural beliefs. Equal parts history lesson and adrenaline rush.

After the tour, it was—naturally—back to pampering. I headed to a nail salon because, when in Vietnam (home of some of the best nail artists), you have to get a fabulous set. I accidentally chose the most detailed design possible and spent three hours there—but for $30 USD, I walked out with the best nails of my life.

Post-nails, I was starving and ended up at Hong Hoai’s Restaurant, where I ordered (you guessed it) more spring rolls and a comforting bowl of pork phở.

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The Ha Giang Loop

After way too much research on the Ha Giang Loop, I realized there are basically two types of tours: the budget-friendly, party-hostel version (fast-paced, big groups, party every night) or the smaller group experience (slower pace, quiet homestays, more immersive—and yes, more expensive).

As someone who loves a good night out, I was definitely tempted by the party route. It seemed like an easy way to meet people. But the motorbike loop was a huge reason I came to Vietnam, and I didn’t want to rush it or miss out on the culture, nature, and overall tranquility. So I went with a small group tour (max six people) through Ha Giang Adventure.

It was pricier—around $400 USD compared to some tours as low as $120 with groups of up to 50 people—but I can confidently say I don’t regret it for a second. The added cost genuinely elevated the entire experience, and I don’t think I would’ve enjoyed it nearly as much had I gone the budget route.

There are three main routes along the loop: eastern, western, and the Cao Bang northern region. Ha Giang Adventure offers a few options: a 4-day/3-night eastern loop, a 3-day/2-night western loop, and a 6-day/5-night combo that includes Cao Bang. I chose the 4-day eastern loop—though I was very tempted by the extended route.

My honest take: if you have the time and stamina, go for the 6-day. I would’ve loved to see Nui Mat Than (God’s Eye Mountain) and Ban Gioc Waterfall. That said, I was exhausted after four days. If you’re not used to long hours on a motorbike (and a very sore rear), the 4-day option is probably the sweet spot.

One of the best perks of my tour? A private car transfer from my hotel in Hanoi to Ha Giang—a six-hour drive that most companies don’t include. That slightly higher price was already paying off. Another American girl around my age and I were picked up around 6am in a super comfortable van, and we instantly clicked. We both worked in humanitarian aid, loved travel, and—naturally—spent the entire ride discussing how we’d solve the world’s problems and start nonprofits. Casual road trip conversations.

When we arrived, we were greeted with coffee and a massive meal. Another huge bonus: they store your extra luggage so you only bring a backpack for the loop. I’d heard horror stories from travelers in larger groups waiting hours to retrieve bags due to the chaos—definitely not the case for us.

Then came the biggest surprise: my new friend Lauren and I were the only two people booked on the tour. We were thrilled we got along so well, because we were about to spend the next four days together nonstop.

After lunch, we geared up, met our drivers, and officially hit the road. Our guides came prepared—with large bottles of water, high-quality waterproof jackets and pants (a lifesaver compared to the flimsy ponchos most tours provide), and waterproof covers for our bags.

Each night, we stayed in private homestays where Lauren and I shared a room. We had comfortable twin beds, incredible views, and home-cooked dinners featuring authentic Vietnamese dishes from the region—plus unlimited “happy water” (local rice wine) every evening. The quieter, off-the-beaten-path locations were absolutely worth the extra cost, especially compared to the more crowded town stays of larger groups.

On our second night, we took a boat to our homestay along the stunning Nho Que River—easily one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever stayed. On night three, we slept in what I can only describe as a marshmallow-like room overlooking mountains and rice fields, and ended the night playing pool with our guides and host.

The views the entire trip were unreal. We experienced a little bit of everything weather-wise—our first two days were cold, foggy, and rainy (especially brutal on the back of a motorbike), and I was incredibly grateful for the proper rain gear since I hadn’t packed enough warm clothes. The last two days brought more sunshine, but honestly, the weather is unpredictable and you just roll with it. At one point, the fog was so thick there was no view at all… so we ended up doing karaoke at a random roadside stop instead. You make your own fun out there.

Overall, this was hands-down the highlight of my trip. All meals were included (and plentiful), the transport option was 100% worth it, and while I loved sharing a room with Lauren, there is also a private room option if you prefer your own space.

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Ha Giang Packing List & Tips

I went in March, which is still considered a cooler season in the mountains—and honestly, most guides don’t emphasize this enough. You’ll likely need warmer clothes than you expect (unless you hit an unexpected heat wave).

My advice: layers, layers, layers. I wore leggings, parachute-style hiking pants, and the waterproof pants they provided pretty much every day. On top, I rotated between a short-sleeve shirt, my own waterproof jacket, and the heavier one they provided—often all at once.

• Leggings (for layering)
• Water proof or resistant pants
• long sleeve under shirt (wool is best)
• short sleeve shirt
• Water proof jacket
• Sweatshirt (layering)
• Warm pajamas (no heat in the rooms)
• Comfortable tennis shoes or light boots
• Warm socks (several pair)
• Bathing suit
• Beanie or soft hat
• Phone case with a neck cord (if you worry you might drop your phone)
• Bug spray and sunscreen
• Sunglasses
• Portable charger
• Cash for souvenirs, snacks and coffee
• Dramamine (the roads are windy)

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Ninh Binh

Since my Ha Giang tour dropped me back in Hanoi around 10pm, I stayed the night and booked a shuttle for the next morning to Ninh Binh. After the (and mild soreness) of the loop, I figured Ninh Binh’s laid-back vibe would be the perfect reset.

I booked my shuttle through GetYourGuide for about $20—and yes, it had massaging chairs. There were cheaper options, but I wanted to be dropped directly at my hotel, and the alternative involved what would’ve been an absolutely brutal walk with luggage.

I arrived at my magazine-worthy stay, Hang Lan Ecolodge, where I had my own riverside bungalow (highly recommend). I grabbed one of the complimentary bikes—most hotels in the area offer them—and headed toward Bich Dong Pagoda and the Tam Coc river.

Along the way, I stopped at a tiny restaurant and was served the largest bowl of chicken and egg noodles I’ve ever seen, plus a peach mango tea—all for $3.50!

Once in Tam Coc, I joined a tour for about $11 that included a boat ride along the river and a golf cart tour to several temples—including one built deep inside a cave—and back to Bich Dong Pagoda. Quick tip: if you’re chasing that perfect, crowd-free photo at Bich Dong, go early and skip the tour groups.

Afterward, a new friend and I grabbed Indian food (I needed a brief break from my spring roll era), and there are actually quite a few solid Indian spots in the area.

Day two: I was determined to drive a motorbike. I messaged a local rental shop that didn’t ask too many questions (you get it) and rented one for a grand total of $3. The catch? They handed it over completely empty, so finding gas—and negotiating for it—was part of the adventure. I ended up spending about $5 at a very questionable roadside setup, but hey, it worked.

I was cruising in no time and made my way to Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex without needing a tour or Grab. There may have been a brief accidental highway moment where I reconsidered all my life choices—but I rerouted on the way back and lived to tell the tale.

At Trang An, I met a few other solo travelers equally confused by the million tour options. We eventually figured it out and chose Route 3—which I’d highly recommend for its cave-heavy, scenic water route. If you’re short on time, I’d actually skip Tam Coc and just do Trang An Route 3—it’s about three hours and offers more dramatic scenery.

Afterward, my new Canadian friend and I grabbed lunch before heading to Hang Mua to tackle the famous 500-step climb. The stairs split into two paths—I went left toward the dragon statue, which gives you sweeping valley views and lets you snap a photo of the temple on the opposite peak. Win-win.

Fair warning: the steps are steep, a bit slippery, and very crowded at the top. Take your time—I definitely did.

I wrapped up the day meeting my Canadian friend for dinner at Nha hang Pho Xua before heading to the night market around Ky Lan Lake. If you’re there on a Friday night, this is the place to be—the temples reflecting off the water and glowing gold at night are absolutely stunning.

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Lan Ha and Ha Lang Bay Cruise

I booked a luxury 2-day, 1-night cruise through GetYourGuide to explore Lan Ha (less busy) and Ha Long Bay—because it felt like one of those “you have to do it” Vietnam experiences.

And while it was definitely beautiful (it’s UNESCO-listed for a reason), I have to be honest… this was probably the most underwhelming part of my trip.

The boat itself was lovely, the staff were fantastic, and the food was solid—but the whole experience felt very touristy and surprisingly rushed. For a 2-day cruise, there was only about an hour total for activities like kayaking and swimming, which was a bit disappointing considering that’s a huge part of why you go.

The biking excursion on one of the islands was also super “rất nhanh” (blink and you’ll miss it), and overall, the itinerary felt more like checking boxes than actually enjoying the surroundings.

And then… there was the group. Let’s just say I ended up on a boat with about 13 French travelers, and the stereotype was alive and well on this cruise. Not exactly the social, meet-new-people vibe I had experienced everywhere else in Vietnam (you could hear a pin drop at meals). Only one person really talked to me—and unfortunately, he was a slightly creepy older man fresh off a trip to Thailand… so, not ideal.

That said, it wasn’t all bad. The room itself was genuinely nice (the bathroom especially—luxury at sea is no joke), and I actually loved the spring roll cooking class onboard. That was a highlight.

But overall, if I could do it again, I’d skip the overnight luxury cruise and opt for a day trip instead. You’ll still get the stunning views of Ha Long Bay without the rushed schedule—and save some money while your at it.

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Final Day in Hanoi

To wrap up my trip, I spent my last day in Hanoi treating myself to some luxury beauty experiences I’d normally be way too cheap for back home.

First up: an extremely bold decision to get my hair highlighted and cut—yes, I got bangs—at a local salon where we communicated entirely through Google Translate, reference photos, and my own silent prayers. Somehow… it worked. A true success story.

Riding that wave of confidence (and mild disbelief), I doubled down and went for a lash lift and tint plus eyebrow threading at another nearby spot. At that point, I was fully committed to the glow-up.

If you have the time, I highly recommend dedicating a day to spa and beauty treatments in Hanoi. You can try all the services you might not regularly splurge on elsewhere—for a fraction of the price. I even squeezed in one more 90-minute massage at Nha Spa and spent the rest of the day hopping between coffee shops and sampling as much street food as possible.

Another highlight was the Hanoi Night Market and Dong Xuan Market, where I scored some great souvenir deals (and tested my bargaining skills one last time).

To round out the trip with a bit of culture, I went to the Hanoi Water Puppet Show with my Canadian friend, who happened to be back in Hanoi at the same time. A very wholesome and fitting end to an unforgettable trip.

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Thanks for zooming through Vietnam with me — if you’ve got questions, drop a comment below! And hey, if you loved this guide, stay tuned or subscribe — I’m currently in the works of planning a couple more trips!

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